7tncav

The Uniform

Though we should always be military in routine and drill, it must be
understood that the Confederate soldier was a citizen soldier. From
necessity much of his clothing came from home. This is especially true for
the men who rode with Forrest. Men were frequently given furloughs in
the winter to visit their homes and would obtain fresh clothing. By
studying the civilian clothing of the period, one can develop the basics for
a western Confederate impression. Hats, shirts, vest, trousers, boots and
shoes, and even sack coats can be of civilian styles. Women at home made
depot issue clothing that was contracted by the Confederate government.
When issue uniforms were received they were usually jackets and trousers
of the same fabric and color. Homespun jeancloth became prevalent as a
symbol of the South's ingenuity in the face of the blockade. Of course,
the other supplier of the Confederates was the generous foe. However,
Federal authorities issued orders to execute Confederates wearing in
whole or part of any Union uniform. Also, the confusion on the
battlefield prompted Forrest and other Confederate commanders to order
troops to re-dye captured overcoats as soon as possible. They were usually
dyed butternut or black with vegetable dyes on hand, such as walnut
shells, indigo, copperas or sumac- much the same dyes used in
Confederate uniforms from mid-war on.

Hats

Probably the most noticed part of an individual's impression is the hat, and
yet, there are more than a few reenactors that wear incorrect ones. Often,
reenactors will strive to have their hat look as worn and beaten as possible.
While it is true that over the course of 3 to 4 years, any article of clothing
would show substantial wear, men of the 19th century took great pride in
appearance of their hats and having a worn, yet "attended to" hat would have
been more the norm than the exception. There is a difference between a
period slouch hat and a 3x Bailey hat from a western store. Though a new
company called Stetson had invented the shake hat just prior to the war,
most hats were still of wool felt. Many varieties were popular during the
1860s….from the common slouch hat, beehive, coachman, wideawake, derby,
and wheel hat. Black seemed to be the predominate color, followed by brown
and gray. White felt hats were rare. Most hats had a silk band on the crown
and a wide leather brim inside.

The hat was generally worn square on the head. Some soldiers would turn the
brim up on one side or in the front to facilitate shooting. Though some
troopers from certain states adorned their hats with stars (Texas &
Mississippi) or palmettos (South Carolina), brass cross-sabers and unit
numbers or letters were rare in the western theater. Hat cords were not an
issued item to enlisted men.

Straw hats were popular in summer if available. Forage caps and kepis were
sporadically issued. Except for early war, they usually contained no trim.
They were never as popular with the troops on either side in the west as the
more utilitarian slouch hat.

Jackets

1861 Confederate regulations called for a "double-breasted frock coat" to be
worn by enlisted men. With the necessity to save material, a new shorter
jacket quickly emerged….the shell jacket. Hundreds of thousands of these
were manufactured during the war. Initially, a soldier's jacket was usually
tailor-made wool, as his civilian clothes had been. As the war progressed, a
shortage of fine wool developed in the South. Homespun or jeancloth, a
coarse mixture of wool and cotton, became a substitute fabric for uniforms.
It was easily manufactured at home and became a sort of symbol of Southern
independence. Clothing was dyed with vegetable dyes as earlier mentioned.
Though gray was the preferred color, the cloth would soon oxidize giving a
yellowish-brown hue. It should be noted that many of today's reproduction
uniforms are chemically dyed and will not oxidize. It is up to the individual
to replicate the effect by using a weak solution of gray and tan dye dispensed
with a pump sprayer to weather it or actually dip the article in the boiling
combination of walnut, sumac, etc. Jeancloth should never be washed but
may be dry-cleaned. You are supposed to look a little dirty anyway. Early
versions of shell jackets often contained shoulder straps or belt loops. These
were eliminated as the war progressed. Exterior pockets were common in
jackets manufactured in Alabama and Mississippi. The number of buttons
varied between 5 and 9. The most common buttons were state, wood, shell
and Federal Eagle (Army buttons). Block 'C' buttons were not common in
the west, but some 'gilt' letter buttons were made in Montgomery.

Sack Coats

This was the standard civilian outer-garment for men. With a small lapel
collar and a 4-button front, a soldier in lieu of a shell jacket would wear the
sack coat. Some coats were given a standing collar and a fifth button to give
it a more military appearance. Captured Yankee sack coats were often
re-dyed.

Vests

Vests were sometimes made of the same fabric as the jacket, especially if a
complete suit was sewn by a loved one back home. This vest often had a
standing collar. Civilian vests with lapelled collars were also common.
Usually, the vest would have at least one pocket, occasionally two. However,
vests with no pockets did exist.

Shirts

White muslin shirts were most common. These and gray flannel shirts were
issued to Union troops in large quantities. Other civilian shirts of various
patterns were popular. Shirts were of the pullover type with 4 or 5 buttons.
It was customary to button up to the neck. In the early stages of the war
large over-shirts called 'battle-shirts' were prevalent, especially before jackets
were available and many contained colored trim and large pockets. Shirt
buttons were glass, bone, wood, shell or tin.

Trousers

Trousers were of a loose fit with either a 'tie-back' or 'belt-back'. Trousers
had no belt loops and generally no back pockets. They were worn to fit or
were supported by suspenders attached with buttons of bone or tin.
Occasionally, a belt was worn over upper portion of the trousers for support.
Front pockets could be 'side-seamed' or 'mule-eared'. Wool was the
preferred fabric for trousers, though homespun or cotton began to appear as
the war progressed.

Depot issue trousers were usually the same for all branches of service. Some
troopers improvised by sewing parts of gum blankets, canvas, or leather in
the seat for re-enforcement.

The use of 'sky-blue' trousers for a Confederate impression is generally
discouraged though there are times they would be appropriate.

Boots and Shoes

Mid-nineteenth century footwear was square-toed and square-heeled. Of
course, boots were preferred by cavalrymen, with the straight-topped civilian
style the most available. Knee-boots were popular if they could get them. A
general shortage of leather by mid-war caused many improvisations. Some
boots were made with wooden soles and heel plates. Many troopers in
Forrest's command were relegated to wearing captured Yankee brogans.
Forrest captured 6000 pairs from a river transport during the Johnsonville
raid. Confederate issue, Union, or civilian spurs can be worn. Several
companies that would later comprise the 7th Tennessee Cavalry were issued
spurs made by the Memphis Novelty Works upon mustering in. (At present,
no one manufactures reproductions of these).